545 
83 
py 1 



b 



-3 












■ 






as I L K5 



AND THE 



A. COMPLETE 



BOOK OF INSTRUCTION 



ON 



SILK CULTURE, 



/ 



BY 



i. be* m@saiTsm, 

i 881. 



1 6 'bi 



/" PHILADELPHIA : 

Published by NELLIE LINCOLN ROSSITER, 
No. 1 Fern Place, 1317 Heath Street. 



P 



1t 



Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2011 with funding. from 
The Library of Cohgrei 






http://www.archive.org/details/silksilkwormcomp01ross 



hbj tun) ni) hi (Hir a aim 



As much has been said in regard to spreading in foi null n silk < nl 

tnre .mioii;; oui people, there seems to be ;i necessity foi doim/, so in .1 
in.innei to em oni ,\>>c (Ins industry anion;; those who would l)i' lUOSl lilaly 
to rn:;.i;;c in il and as i;;noi .1 n< e ol the HUMUS Ol I'.iinin;; information 
time and trouble necessary to do •,,», and tin- supposed dilln ullies and ex 

penso oi starting du'woik, have no doubt deterred thousands from attempt 

[ng it, I offei this book Ol instruction, whit h meets .ill these cli I'f ic ullies, .il 
a price placing il within the reach ol all. I <lo noi wish it understood that 
I claim tin- instructions to he entirely original with mysell bill I clo i laim, 
ih.it from personal experience, and information I have gained I > < >n i the I >« .1 
authorities on this subject, mv instructions, il followed, will enable anyone 
to raise silk successfully. I hope by this means t<> encourage and starl In 

the Work, those who ;nc not able to spare tune and money foi in .Inn tiOHS 
.it a school, and those who have no opportunities ol visilinj; places where 
the necessary information can be obtained. The work contains all ih<- in 
formation required for beginners in this beautiful industry, which is fast 
becoming oi national importance, I should nol venture i<> introduce it; 

weie it not lor the since,:, I have inel with by following the Miles l;iid down 
m it, and the attention I have paid tO eain knowledge Oi the woik. My 

daughter, when nol yet u yens <>i age, was presented with a "diploma'' as 
a special premium, by the Pennsylvania State Agricultural Society (at their. 

last lair, held in this city at the Permanent Exhibition Building) lor the ex- 
cellent quality of silk, cocoons, etc., raised by herself. 

I take pleasure in referring to the following named gentlemen, Officers 
of the Association ! 

PRESIDENT, 

WM. S. BISSELL, Esq., Pittsburgh, Pa. 

i hi:- i \ u i<:s i /> i: n i s, 
DR. ALFRED L. KENNEDY, Philadelphia. 

WM. H. HOLSTEIN, Esq., Montgomery Co., 

JOHN McDOWELL, Esq., Washington Co., Pa. 



A BOOK OF INSTRUCTION 



-ON- 



SILK CULTURE, 

Compiled from personal experience and gathered from 
the best authorities. 



THE WORM. 

The " Bivoltin," or two crop Silk Worm (Bombyx Mori) which in this 
country supplies the silk ordinarily used in commerce, and is often called 
the "Mulberry Silk Worm, " is produced by a cream- colored moth, with 
brownish markings more or less distinct across its wings. This moth is 
called, scientifically, "Sericaria Mori." This worm gives two crops of silk 
each season, and by following the directions given in this work — with strict 
attention to details, success will follow. 

The great secret of success in raising silk is, first, have plenty of food 
for your worms ; for if not well fed they will not thrive, nor give silk in large 
quantities or of good quality. And second, even with plenty of food at 
command, if the worms are not properly attended to, fed as often as they 
require to be, and strict attention paid to cleanliness, your time and labor 
will be thrown away. These points it will be well to pay attention to. 

THE EGG. 

The eggs of the Moth, called by raisers the "seed," are nearly round 
and very small in size. When first laid they are yellow, and if they retain 
this color they are worthless. If, however, in 12 or 15 days they change 
to a darker color (gray or slate), it shows they are impregnated and are good 
for seed. They also become slightly indented, and are fastened to the 
card on which they are laid by a natural gum produced by the # moth. As 
the hatching time approached, the egg becomes lighter in color, its fluid 
contents becoming concentrated in the centre where the worm is forming, 
leaving the space between it and the shell transparent. Just before hatch- 
ing the worm becomes active, sometimes producing a faint clicking sound. 
After it has hatched, the shell becomes quite white. All eggs not hatching 
by the 4th day from the appearance of the first worms, had better be thrown 
away, as they are probably sickly or diseased. 



SILK CULTURE. 5 

THE BIVOLTIN. 

The color of the newly hatched worm is black or dark gray, and it 
gets gradually lighter till the last age, when it is of a cream-white color. 
The worm passes through from three to four " molts" or sicknesses. The 
periods between these molts are called "ages" — there being five of these 
ages including the first, from the haiching, and the last, from the 4th molt 
to the spinning period. The time between these molts is usually divided 
as follows — the first period, from 5 to 6 days — the second, from 4 to 5 days 
— the third, about 5 days — the fourth, from 5 to 6 days — and the fifth, from 
8 to 10 days. These periods are not exact but proportionate. 

The time from the hatching to the spinning of the cocoons will vary 
from 30 to 40 days, depending on the race of the worms, quality of food, 
mode of feeding, temperature, etc., but the same proportion of time between 
the molts is generally found to be the same. 

When molting is about to take place the worm ceases eating, at which 
time it firmly fastens iiself by its hinder legs — raises the fore part of its body, 
and remains motionless for about 12 hours when it casts its skin. During 
this time it must not be disturbed. 

When ready to molt the worm becomes of a dirty yellow color, and 
care must be taken not to mistake them for the sick worm, which it some- 
what resembles, and which will be described hereafter. In front of the first 
joint a dark spot is to be noticed at this time, showing the growth of the 
new head, and when this sickness or molt is over and the worm casts off 
its old' skin, it rests for a short time to recover its strength and then com- 
mences eating voraciously, as if to make up for lost time. In molting the 
new head is just freed from the old skin, which is then gradually worked 
back until it is entirely cast off. This process is repeated until the 4th molt, 
after which, in the course of 8 to 10 days' feeding, it will be ready to spin. 

All worms hatched on the first two days should be kept together and 
called the 1st hatch — those of the third day, the 2d hatch — and all the re- 
mainder, the 3d hatch. This is to have your worms grow up together of 
an average size, so as to molt at one time, and not to have the larger ones 
crowding the smaller from their food. It is also advisable to separate the 
larger worms from the others as they outgrow them. 

THE COCOON. 

The " Cocoon" is tough and compact, and is composed of a continuous 
thread of silk which is strong and firm, and is spun by the worm in figure 
of 8, shaped loops. Its shape is generally oval or egg-shaped, and varies 
in color, the commonest of which are the yellow, straw or cream color, white 
and green. These colors are supposed to denote the nationality of the worm 
spinning them. The larger sized rounder-formed cocoons denote the 
females, while the males are more slender shaped, depressed in the centre 



6 SILK CULTURE. 

and pointed at both ends. This is generally used as a rule among growers. 
The outer lining of the cocoon is a loose silk spun by the worm when pre- 
paring for its final work. It is called flock, or floss, and sells with the 
pierced cocoons and other waste silk. This cannot be reeled, but is carded 
and spun by the manufacturers. The cocoons will run all the way from 
200 to 600 yards. The better the worms are fed and the more care there 
is taken of them, the heavier and finer the cocoons will be, and the fewer it 
will take of them to produce a pound of silk. 

THE MOTH. 

The " Moth," which does not eat and which is said to have no jaws, is 
provided with a liquid secretion with which it moistens the end of the 
cocoon and dissolves the gum by which the worm fastens its threads of silk 
together. It then slowly forces its way out, pushing the threads aside ; but 
breaking so many of them as to render the cocoons from which they escape 
useless for reeling. These are called " pierced cocoons." 

FEEDING AND RAISING 

The room in which the worms are to be raised must be arranged so as 
to allow it to be thoroughly and easily ventilated, and warmed if necessary 
— one facing the northeast is best. If buildings are erected expressly for 
the purpose, they must combine all these. If only a small number of worms 
are to be raised, a few trays placed on tables will be a!l that will be required. 
If, however, large numbers are reared, frames and trays must be provided 
— the wood, in all cases, to be well seasoned. Make upright frames across 
the room, to hold the number of trays to be used to accommodate the worms 
raised. The worms must not be huddled too closely together, as they need 
plenty of room for feeding and ventilation. If too many are kept together 
in the trays, they cannot feed properly — it is more difficult to change them — 
and it also tends to create disease among them. The trays are formed of 
thin frames like laths, set edgeways — say 16 inches by 24 inches (this will 
be a good size for handling easily). Drive tacks half way in, on the under 
side of the frames, all round, about half an inch apart. Then take good 
strong twine, not too thick, run it from tack to tack lengthways of the frame 
stretching it tightly — then crossways, interlapping it so as to make a firm 
support for the musquito-netting, leaves and worms. After stretching the 
twine on the frame, drive the tacks in to the heads and the tray is com- 
plete. A tray of this size will hold and feed 1000 worms at 1st and 2d age, 
alter which time they must be separated as they grow larger, placing them 
on other trays. Have musquito-netting (white) cut so as to nearly fit the 
t ra y S — providing enough to have changes every day which must be attended 
to, as cleanliness is actually necessary for the health of the worms. Change 
them early in the morning — and hang the nettings used over night, up tq 
air. When the worm is first hatched, tarleton is used in place of netting, 



SILK CULTURE. 7 

(the meshes of which are too large) on this sprinkle some fresh, tender 
mulberry leaves. The little worms will leave the eggs and immediately 
commence eating, and from this time constant attention must be paid to re- 
newing the leaves as. often as may be required — and as the worms eat fast, 
and the leaves dry rapidly, they need replenishing often. A large quantity 
of food given at a time is not beneficial, but is a waste. Give the worms 
what they require for the time and renew as often as they need it. 

There have been rules laid down for feeding at certain hours through 
the day, but these are not to be depended on. The raiser can see when 
fresh food is needed, and the worms will soon leave the food they do not 
like. This is why so much attention is required — not that they must be 
constantly watched, for unless a very large number is being raised, the 
attendant can, provided they are not away too long at a time, attend to 
other duties. During the last few days before spinning (5th age) more con- 
stant attention is required, as the worms eat enormously. All litter and 
excrement must be often removed, and the attendant must be on the watch 
for sick and diseased worms, which must be immediately removed— and food 
must be on hand in large quantities. The greatest care must be taken to 
have the worms of the same ages kept together on the trays, so that they 
will molt at the same time ; thus saving much time. They grow rapidly 
after each molt, and must be separated when necessary to allow them plenty 
of room. The worms eat most freely early in the morning and late at 
night ; therefore furnish food abundantly between 5 and 6 o'clock in the 
morning and about 11 o'clock at night. Leaves for the early morning 
meal should be picked the day before, as they are apt to induce disease if 
fed to the worms with the dew on them. When picked during a rain they 
should be thoroughly dried before using them for food. Damp or wet leaves 
should never be used, and dried up and withered or stale leaves the worms 
will not eat — thus the leaves must be fresh picked from the trees as often as 
possible. If the leaves have to be brought from a distance and cannot be 
picked fresh every time the worms are fed, place the ends of the twigs or 
stems in water — keep in a cool, shady place (a cool cellar is best) and renew 
the water often. The smooth leaves are the best, as the worms do not like 
the rough ones, though both kinds may be found on one tree. 

When changing in the mornings place the netting over, or on top of, 
the leaves and worms in the trays— sprinkle fresh leaves on it, and the 
worms will come up through the meshes to feed. When all are up, take 
the netting carefully by the ends and place on another tray. The old dried 
leaves and refuse should then be thrown away and the netting shaken clean 
and aired for another day's changing The netting obviates the handling 
of the worms almost entirely, which is hurtful to them. If the leaves are 
given to the worms on the twigs or branches they keep fresh longer, besides 
having a free circulation of air through them. 



8 SILK CULTURE. 

The direct rays of the sun must be avoided, as it will kill the worms. 
A direct current of air on them is hurtful, but thorough ventilation is neces- 
sary. A uniform temperature of 75 is required for the feeding room. It 
is not desirable to get it above 8o°. Sudden changes from warm to cold or 
vice-versa should be avoided. The air should be kept pure. If the tem- 
perature falls below yo° artificial heat must be used. If the weather is very 
hot and dry, sprinkling or mopping the floor two or three times a day will 
prevent the leaves drying too rapidly and will afford all the necessary mois- 
ture the worms require. Be careful in feeding not to allow any other leaves 
to be mixed with the mulberry, and see that the leaves are clean. A peach 
leaf has been known to kill the worms eating it. Tobacco in any shape is 
poison to them. Great care must be taken at all times to prevent birds, 
ants and insects of all kinds, gaining access to the worms. Rats and mice 
are always watching for a chance to get at them, all through their existence, 
and are almost as great an enemy as the silk worm has. The worm when 
ready to spin wrll leave its food and search for a place to deposit its silk — 
climbing as high as it can to do so. Small branches or twigs may be tied 
together and placed ready for the worms. (See " Spinning.") When ready 
to spin, they must not be disturbed or handled if it can possibly be avoided. 
Should two or more of them commence spinning together, making what is 
called a double cocoon, one of them should be gently removed. The double 
cocoon cannot be reeled ; though the moths from them are perfectly good 
for laying purposes. 

SPINNING. 

Within 8 to 10 days after the last molt the worms begin to lose their 
appetite, become restless and commence throwing out silk. The twigs, etc., 
should now be prepared for them. Set branches 2 or 3 feet long up in the 
arches in the trays, about 1 foot apart at the bottoms. Interlace the twigs 
with broom corn, hemlock or other well dried brush. Paper cones can also 
be made and placed among the branches and in the netting. Keep the 
temperature of the room now at, or about 8o°, as the silk flows from the 
worm much more freely in a warm atmosphere. The worms will climb into 
the branches and commence spinning. Those that do not, must be still fed 
often, but in small quantities to prevent waste, as some of them will quit 
eating and wander away to spin every few minutes. Those that do not 
commence spinning when the majority have done so, must be moved to 
another tray, as the worms already mounted will discharge a soft excrement 
before beginning to spin, which will stain the cocoons below them. In 2 
or 3 days the spinning will be completed ; and in 6 or 7 days the chrysalis 
will be formed. 



SILK CULTURE. 9 

GATHERING THE COCOONS. 

In 8 days time from the commencement of the spinning it will be 
time to gather the cocoons. The stained cocoons should first be removed 
and laid aside. Be very careful not to stain the clean ones with the black 
fluid of worms that have died — for this will happen in every cocoonery. 

The loose outer or floss silk must then be picked off from the inner 
solid cocoon, which process is called stripping, and the latter separated 
according to weight, color and firmness — those which feel most solid and 
resist pressure, being the best. Soft or imperfect cocoons must be separated 
from the firmer ones, as they would be crushed and soil the others. The 
finest and firmest must now be taken for seed for the next crop, as it is 
preferable to keep the eggs, to buying from large establishments — as they 
are apt to be untrustworthy. It is always best for silk- raisers to provide 
their own seed. The cocoons for seed must be chosen for their firmness, 
and the fineness and color of their silk, rather than for size. If white — 
take the purest white. If yellow, the straw color is considered the best. If 
green — the darkest, glossiest ones must be chosen, as these have the best 
quality of thread. Do not use the pale shade of green cocoon for seed. 
Should there be any double or treble cocoons — that is, those made by two, 
or more worms ; if they are of the right color and quality use them for seed, 
for which purpose they are just as good though unfit for reeling. Should 
it be desired to have an ounce of seed, or 40,000 eggs for the next crop or 
for sale, it would be safe to take at least 200 cocoons, half male and half 
female; and even 225 would be safer. Each female moth it is estimated 
will lay from 200 to 400 eggs. 

The cocoons must now be laid aside, awaiting the appearance of the 
moth — care being taken to keep them from rats and mice. Then take care 
of the other cocoons which must all be stripped, and they are then ready 
for stifling or choking. 

CHOKING OR STIFLING COCOONS. 

If the cocoons can be sold immediately on their completion, or before 
the 8th day from their commencement, no further trouble will be necessary 
after stripping them, than to pack them in bales and ship them to their 
destination. If the raiser intends reeling— or if some time must elapse 
before the cocoons can be sold or sent to a reeling establishment or 
" filature," some means must be taken to prevent the moth from leaving 
the cocoon, thus injuring the silk for reeling purposes. This can be done 
by stifling them with steam or choking them with dry heat. Steaming is 
said to be the surest and quickest method if conveniences are at hand. It 
can be done at any steam mill. The cocoons are placed on shelves in an 
air-tight box, and steam turned into it. Twenty minutes will do the required 
work, and the cocoons are then dried in the sun. Dry-heat choking takes 



io SILK CULTURE. 

a longer time. Place the cocoons on shallow dishes on iron frames in an 
oven, heated to a temperature of about 200 . This should not be increased 
for fear of scorching the silk. The operation takes about one hour — though 
one and a half hours are not too long to insure success. A slight humming 
noise in the cocoon maybe heard while there is life, and its cessation shows 
that the chrysalids are dead. After this operation is completed, the cocoons 
should be spread on shelves, in the shade with plenty of air, and be 
frequently stirred for the first few days. After remaining on the shelves for 
a few weeks with occasional stirring, the chrysalids become quite dry and 
the cocoons will keep for an indefinite time. They are still subject to attacks 
from rats, mice and insects, which are attracted by the dead chrysalis within. 
After thoroughly drying, place the cocoons in bags of thin material and 
hang them up for future use. 

EGG-LAYING OR REPRODUCTION. 
Second Crop. 

From the 10th to the 20th day from the time when the worm com- 
mences to spin, the Moths will begin issuing from the cocoons set apart for 
breeding purposes. They make their appearance in the greatest numbers 
in the morning early, from 4 to 8 o'clock — and as they appear should be 
taken gently by the wings, placed on paper, and the sexes kept apart for a 
short time. The males may readily be distinguished by their smaller bodies 
and by the incessant fluttering of their wings. The females remain quiet, 
their abdomens being distended with eggs. When they first issue from the 
cocoon they are wet — their wings clinging to their bodies. They soon dry 
themselves, however; and after being separated for an hour or two, the 
sexes in equal numbers may be placed together upon paper or card-board, 
and the room be kept as dark as possible. For the complete impregnation 
of the eggs the sexes should be kept together 6 hours — neither more nor 
less, and they should be occasionally visited, in order to replace the males 
which may have become separated. Should more males than females issue 
from the cocoons on any day, the superfluous males may be put in a closed 
box and kept till the next day. Should there, on the other hand, be 
more females than males, a sufficient number of the most vigorous males 
should be uncoupled at the end of 4 hours and placed with the uncoupled 
females for 6 hours more. When separated great care must be taken not 
to injure the moths. The female should beheld by the wings with one hand 
and the abdomen of the male be gently pressed with the other. The males 
may then be laid aside in a box, as there may be use for them before all the 
moths have appeared. After all the females have been impregnated the 
males may be thrown away. The females as soon as separated should be 
placed for a few minutes upon blotting paper, where they will discharge a 
quantity of greenish-yellow fluid. From this they should be put on the 



SILK CULTURE. n 

cards placed upon trays, on which the eggs are to be laid. Some raisers prefer 
a sort of smooth woolen cloth for the moths to lay on. It is advisable to 
tip up the trays at one end, as it enables the moths to lay their eggs 
uniformly. The temperature of the room should be kept at 75 and plenty 
of air given during their laying. Keep the room dark till laying is finished. 
The moths may be removed in about 24 hours, as by that time all the 
thoroughly impregnated eggs will be laid. Any eggs laid after that time 
must be separated from the others. The eggs are fastened to the card or 
paper on which they are laid, by a natural gum, produced by the moth 
while laying, and it is best to use these cards with care, so as to preserve 
the eggs, which being fastened, the young worms eat their way out better. 
The eggs retain a light-yellow color for 12 or 15 days when they gradually 
change to the gray, lavender or greenish tint, which shows them to be im- 
pregnated. Those which retain their original color longer than this, are 
generally worthless. The moths live but a few days after laying. They 
do not eat anything during their short lives. 

ENEMIES AND DISEASES. 

The silk worm has its enemies and diseases. The former it can be 
protected from ; but for the latter there are no remedies which are of any 
use. Its worst enemies are rats, mice, ants and birds. Rats and mice are 
the most persistent ones. By keeping the windows and doors covered with 
netting or fine wire screens, the birds can be kept away. The others must 
be watched for and destroyed. For diseases — the best and safest plan is to 
immediately remove and destroy all sick worms, to protect the rest of the 
crop from infection. One disease called " muscardine" is very destructive. 
The worm becomes languid, suddenly dies, and in a short time becomes 
stiff and discolored — in about a day a kind of white powder shows itself, 
and soon covers the body. No outward signs indicate the first stage of this 
disease, and though it attacks worms of all ages, it is most destructive and 
fatal in the last age just before spinning. No remedy is known for it. Good 
eggs, good leaves, a pure, even temperatured atmosphere, care in rearing 
the worms, and cleanliness, are checks to it. It is advisable once in a 
while to wash the trays and frames with " diluted carbolic acid." This is 
the best disinfectant known, and is a sure preventive of disease. Another 
disease called "pebrine," has for years been a scourge among silk worms 
in France. The worms affected by it grow unequally, become languid, lose 
appetite and often show discolored spots upon the skin. They die of it at all 
ages, but most at the last age. The worms will be purged by eating unwhole- 
some leaves. Too great heat will make them sickly. If the worm becomes 
yellow, limp and soft, it is caused by a disease called "grasserie" or "jaun- 
dice," which is very common in those raised in this country. When worms 
die from being unable to molt, they are called " lusettes" — these cases are 



12 SILK CULTURE. 

most common at the 4th molt. These diseases need not become too 
troublesome or serious if proper care and attention be given to the worms. 

VARIETIES OR RACES. 

The different varieties of Silk Worm have been produced by domesti- 
cation ; the different climates into which it has been carried having effected 
changes in the habits of the worm, the shape and color of the cocoon, or the 
quality of the silk. There are different varieties of the silk worm. The 
" Annual," which producess only one crop of silk in a year — the " Bivoltin" 
or " 2-crop worm," of which this book treats, which, like the "Annual," 
hatches in April or May ; and which unlike the Annual, again hatches for 
a second crop in 8 to 12 days after the eggs are laid by the first brood. The 
eggs of this second brood are always laid away for the next spring crop ; for 
if hatched they would not live, there being no food for them so late in the 
season, and the weather being unfit to rear them. " Trevoltins" produce 
three annual broods. There are also " Quadrivoltins ;" and in Bengal a 
species known as " Dacey" is said to produce 8 broods in the course of a 
year. Some varieties molt only three times instead of four — especially in 
warm countries — as also do the " Trivoltins." Varieties are also known by 
the color of their cocoons, " greens, whites and yellows," and also by the 
country in which they best flourish. The three most noted varieties are 
" Italian," producing fine, small yellow cocoons. " French," producing 
large yellow and straw-colored cocoons. "Turkish," producing large white 
cocoons, and the "Japanese" white and green, and the "Chinese" white 
cocoons. Some of these are "annuals," but the different colored cocoons 
are generally called by the above names. The silk of the " white" cocoons 
is the most valuable in commerce, but the "straw-colored" is most sought 
after. The races producing the yellow and straw-colored cocoons are con- 
sidered the most vigorous. 

WINTERING AND HATCHING. 

The importance of having the eggs free from disease and of good 
races, has already been shown. They should be kept in tin boxes to pre- 
vent the ravages of rats and mice, and be hung by string or wire from a 
joist in cool, dry cellar where the temperature rarely sinks below the freez- 
ing point. They should be occasionally examined to see if they are affected 
by mold. If this should be discovered on them, it must be carefully rubbed 
or brushed off them at once, and they should be put in a drier place. The 
tin boxes may be perforated on two sides and the holes covered with fine 
wire netting. The temperature should never be allowed to rise above 40 , 
but may fall to freezing point without injury to the eggs. They should be 
kept at this low temperature till hatching time, which will be when the 
mulberry leaves are about one and a quarter inches in length (middle of 
April to May 1st) and great care must be taken as the warm weather in- 



SILK CULTURE. 13 

creaces in the spring, to prevent their hatching before the leaves are ready 
for them. When the warm weather commences, if too early for their food, 
enclose the tin box in a wooden one, and place it on ice. As the tendency 
in our climate is to premature hatching, the great object is to keep them all 
back, as described above, till their food is plenty. When the proper time 
arrives, the eggs should be brought out gradually from the cold cellar at 40 
to a room at 50 for one hour ; then to a room at 6o° for half an hour, and 
then to hatching room at 75 . Then use the " tarleton" netting, and pro- 
ceed as described in " Feeding and Raising," Keep the temperature as 
uniform as possible, and if it is increased about 2 degrees each day it will 
hasten the hatching of the eggs. As the time of hatching approaches the 
eggs grow lighter in color — and if the floor is sprinkled, to moisten the 
atmosphere, it will enable the worm to eat through the shell more easily. 
A small amount of moisture appears to freshen and invigorate them. The 
eggs should be brought out about 4 p. m., or the cool of evening, as the 
worms hatch out from 4 to 8 o'clock in the morning. 

SUMMED UP. 

The requisites for success in raising Silk Worms are — 

1st. — Having good, healthy eggs. 

2d. — Having the worms as nearly as possible of the same age in the 
same trays, to insure their molting at the same time. 

3d. — Feeding regularly and plentifully as it is needed by the worms. 

4th. — Plenty of room so that the worms do not crowd each other. 

5th.-- Fresh air and uniform temperature. 

6th. — Cleanliness. 

The last three are actually necessary during the 4th and 5th ages. 
Never allow the trays to go one day without cleaning, particularly during 
the above named ages, or the worms will suffer in disease or death just as 
they are about spinning. Should there be repetitions found in this work, 
it will be only in cases where the learner's attention is to be particularly 
called to important items. 

FOOD PLANTS. 

The usual food for the silk worm is the mulberry — the "white" being 
the best and the " purple" the next. The " black" and " paper" mulberry 
are not good food for them and should be avoided. The mulberry grows 
readily and is easily propagated by cuttings or from seed. The white in 
particular grows well from cuttings, and is the most economical and quickest 
mode of planting to secure a stock. The cuttings must be started in rows, 
3 or 4 inches apart, after preparing the ground by deep plowing and har- 
rowing. They should be about 6 inches long, and in every case must be 
cut before the eye. They must be almost entirely buried. The quickest 
way to get a supply of leaves is by dwarfing— setting out the young trees 



14 SILK CULTURE. 

from the nursery in rows 10 to 15 feet apart, and 6 to 8 feet between the 
rows — from the top of the tree by cutting down to a foot from the ground. 
The height and form of the tree are regulated by pruning, and the vigorous 
growth of the tree and the ease with which the leaves can be gathered 
depends on this process. Pruning should be done in February or March, 
either every, or every other, year. Remove all dead twigs and dried bark, 
and keep the limbs as smooth as possible. Plant in the fall from frost till 
December, and in the spring from March till May. The following directions 
are from a practical raiser for growing standard trees: The cuttings should 
remain in the nursery 2 years without pruning. The 3d year cut close to 
the ground and transplant. Allow the finest shoot to grow, and if the land 
is good it will grow 8 to 10 feet in height in one season. The 4th year cut 
it back to about 6 feet. Then allow the 3 or 4 terminal buds only to grow, 
removing the others as often as they appear, by passing the hand along the 
stem. The " Morette," a variety of white mulberry, is profitably grown in 
hedges. It is very desirable on account of the large size of its leaves. The 
cultivation of the Osage Orange is well understood in this country. As it 
is generally used as a hedge in those parts of the country which are speci- 
ally adapted to silk culture, the leaves may be readily obtained, and as the 
hedges need trimming, the cutting off of the new growth each year as the 
leaves are wanted for food, is a saving rather than an expense. Those 
using this plant for food for silk worms must remember that as the shoots 
from a hedgerow become more vigorous, milky and succulent by the time 
of the last age of the worms, the terminal leaves should not be used but 
thrown aside, as they are likely to induce disease. If care be taken in this 
respect there will be no apparent difference between the silk crop and that 
of the mulberry. Should the worms from any cause hatch before either 
Mulberry or Osage Orange leaves can be obtained, they may be successfully 
fed for a few days on well dried " lettuce leaves" — but it is worse than a 
useless waste of time to attempt feeding them entirely on these, or the leaves 
of any other plants than the two here recommended. 

REELING. 

The reeling of the silk is by no means a simple operation, as the 
greatest skill is required to do the work properly ; and the value of the silk 
depends as much on the skill of the reeler, as upon its original quality. The 
thread of silk as it unwinds from the cocoon, is of no value for manufactur- 
ing purposes — as several of them must be combined to make the staple silk 
of commerce. Where there are steam-reeling establishments or "filatures" 
it is more profitable to sell the cocoons or have them reeled there, than to 
have the trouble and expense of reeling by hand with the chances all in 
favor of the silk after all not being marketable. There are probabilities of 
"filatures," being erected in this country during the coming season, which 



SILK GULTURE. 15 

will be duly published in the newspapers. The cocoons can be sent to 
those places and sold, or the silk reeled at a small cost. In the meantime 
reelers will be trained, who will impart the necessary knowledge to others. 

Raw silk is divided into three classes, " organzine," " tram" and 
"floss." " Organzine" is well twisted and is the choicest; "tram," made 
from inferior cocoons, is but slightly twisted ; "floss" is made from loose 
silk carded and spun like cotton. The persons reeling silk are generally 
women, one of whom sits or stands before each basin of which she has 
entire charge. The basin is made of tin or copper, heated by a charcoal or 
oil fire. In large establishments the water is heated by steam. 

The cocoons are plunged into the water when it is near the boiling 
point, and moved about so that the gum which fastens the threads is thor- 
oughly softened. They are then stirred or beaten with a small bunch of 
birch twigs with split ends, or with pieces of broom corn tied in a bunch, to 
which the ends of the threads will attach themselves. The reeler will then 
shake the cocoons till each one hangs by a sing'e thread. She now takes 
up five or more threads, according to the quality of silk wanted, unites 
them, and puts the combined strand through a little glass eye, or large glass 
bead, fastened on one side of the reel-frame. She then forms a similar 
strand and puts it through another eye on the other side. The strands are 
then brought together, twisted several times, separated above the twist and 
put through two other glass eyes or wire loops through which they run one 
to each end of the reel, which is kept revolving in a steady, rapid manner, 
and to which is given a side-way motion which crosses and re-crosses the 
silk in such a manner that it will not stick or glaze. The uniformity of the 
thread depends entirely on the skill of the reeler, who must attach a new 
thread as soon as one breaks or a cocoon gives out. This is called nourish- 
ing the silk and is done by dexterously attaching the new thread to the 
combined strand to which it immediately adheres. In this much judgment 
must be used, for as the silk on a cocoon gets lighter and finer as it nears 
the end, the uniformity of the strand does not entirely depend on the num- 
ber of individual threads forming it. When the silk comes off the cocoon 
in bunches the water is too hot ; when it unwinds with difficulty it is too 
cold, and it must be regulated as the operator sees it is necessary. This is 
the operation of reeling, but before the skeins as they come from the reel are 
ready for the manufacturer, they must be passed through a cleanser — a clasp 
lined with cloth which catches any loose silk or other matter adhering to it. 
It is further cleansed by being passed through four similar cleansers, twisted 
about 500 times to the yard, doubled and again twisted 400 times to the 
yard. It is finally run on reels about one and a half feet in diameter — then 
taken off and twisted in knots or hanks in a peculiar manner. Through 
all these operations the oscillating motion is continued, to produce the 



16 SILK CULTURE. 

crossing of the strands. In the end it will be seen that it takes ten 
or more of the simple threads spun by the worm to compose the 
staple thread. The loose, " flock" silk, together with all that cannot be 
reeled, is soaked in water for three days, boiled in clear lye for half an hour, 
washed in rain-water, and, when dry, is carded and spun. This shows that 
it would hardly be safe for individuals to reel their own silk. 

CONCLUSION. 

In conclusion, I would state that there is a market at Marseilles, France, 
for choked cocoons, which can be packed in bales about 5 by 6 feet in size, 
which average about 40 pounds, and shipped there at a rate of freight cost- 
ing #3-°° P er hundred pounds. As high as $2.50 net, has been obtained for 
them there. Eggs raised in this country, which are generally free from 
disease, have been sold from $5.00 to $8.00 per ounce. 

As in taking the lowest estimate, 200 cocoons, half male and half 
female, will give 1 ounce, or 40,000 eggs, which are marketable now at $$ 
per ounce, it will be seen that this branch of the business is profitable. 
Whole choked cocoons, at $1.50 to #2.00 per pound, and pierced cocoons 
and flock silk at $1.00 to $1.50 per pound, will add to the profit, so that in 
the whole, silk-raising will give a very good return for the very small 
expense and the labor and care involved. It will add to the income of 
thousands of families in the United States by giving light and easy employ- 
ment for a few months each year to the aged, the young, and particularly 
to the women of the family, who have no other profitable employment for 
their time. 

Any further information which may be required I will cheerfully give. 
Address, with stamp enclosed, 

C. H. ROSSITER, 
No 1 Fern Plaee, 1317 Heath street, Philadelphia, Pa. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



002 842 903 4* 



